At the frozen edge of Hokkaido, Nemuro doesn’t hold back. On ice-covered Onneto, the search goes under the surface. The target is komai, the “under-ice fish” drifting in from the Sea of Okhotsk. Charcoal-grilled kanpuboshi brings deep, smoky umami. Ruibe, served icy with shichimi soy, adds a sharp kick. Tempura comes out light and airy, while a komai roe rice bowl hits rich and bold. To finish, a steaming sanpei-jiru warms you through. Harsh cold, simple cooking, real flavor. Nothing extra—just what works.